Performing the Umrah, or minor pilgrimage to Makkah, is a deeply meaningful and spiritual experience. Whether to DIY (Do-it-Yourself) or to go with a travel agency, the intent should still be focused on this spiritual upliftment, rather than just completing rituals or worse, taking it as a holiday travel arrangement. If you are planning to DIY, and especially if it is your first time, it can be helpful to understand the steps involved in the process, and what you would need to prepare in advance, so that you would not be overwhelmed and could focus spiritually as well.
Visa, Flights & Accommodation
The first step is to book your flights and accommodation in Makkah and Madinah, because in order to apply for the tourist visa, you are required to have booked your accommodation in Makkah or Madinah, as well as flights. You can apply for a tourist e-Visa here (valid as at time of writing). The tourist e-Visa costs about 535 Riyal. This cost includes the fee for a full health insurance during your stay in Saudi. You would then be issued the e-Visa as well as mandatory insurance policy within one or two business days. It is a good idea to print a hard copy of the e-Visa as well as keep a digital copy of it on your phone. We have been asked to produce our e-Visa at the check-in counter in Singapore, at the airport in Madinah, as well as during random police checks in Makkah.
Choosing your flights depends on many factors. One, you would have to consider whether you are willing to have connecting flights or a direct one. It also depends on the sequence of your visit (Makkah first or Madinah first). Return tickets are generally cheaper but this means that you would have to return to where you had landed initially for your return flight. For example, if you had landed in Madinah first, then travelled by bus, car or high speed train to Makkah, you would have to return to Madinah again for your return flight. One way tickets present a more convenient option. For example, you can land in Madinah (via Prince Mohammed Bin Abdulaziz International Airport), travel to Makkah after a few days, and after finishing your Umrah and other visits in Makkah, you can take the flight back to Singapore from Jeddah (King Abdulaziz International Airport), which is about a one to one-and-a-half hour taxi ride away from Makkah. Alternatively, you can take a one-way flight to Jeddah, travel to Makkah by land, and then head to Madinah before flying back home from there.
Connecting flights result in transfers during transit and this can offer you a break from sitting too long in the cramped cabins (unless you fly Business Class). However, it also means that the overall journey is lengthened and this can make you travel-weary. Another factor you need to consider when booking flights are the departure and arrival timings. Hotels may charge early check-in fees if you arrive in the wee-mornings. However, if this arrangement suits you better, you can of course consider it as part of the accommodation costs.
You can choose hotels ranging from three to five stars, depending on how deep your pockets are and your comfort level. Generally, the hotels nearest to the Haraam are pricier and have better amenities and food options. Those further on the outskirts tend to be for backpackers or pilgrims on a tight budget. However, if you do not mind having just a small room, a basic toilet and a bed to rest on at night, why not? Most of the time in Makkah should be optimised in the Haraam as far as possible anyway and since these hotels are further away from the mosque, they encourage the pilgrims to spend their time in the Haraam as it does not make sense to make too many return trips to the hotel. However, if the budget fits you, and you can find accommodation not too near or too far with a room that is not too fancy, Alhamdulillah! The last Umrah that we went for, we opted for a hotel located slightly further to soak in the atmosphere of the hustle and bustle of street life on the way to the mosque.
Important Things to Bring
Besides packing like how you would for a normal holiday overseas – passports, visa, cash (in Riyal), enough clothings (depending on whether you intend to do laundry there), toiletries and comfortable footwear (including slippers for men) – packing for Umrah would also include a small pair of scissors (inside checked-in luggage) and one or two sets of Ihram wear (for men). If you are not reading the Qur’an from your mobile devices, fret not. There are more than enough copies of the Qur’an for you to borrow and read in both Masjidil Haraam and Masjid Nabawi. Bringing a small sling bag/haversack is also necessary for you to carry your valuables and place your footwear in when you enter the mosque.
Important Digital Tools to Prepare
Local SIM cards are cheaper than getting roaming data access from your own telco and booths selling them are plentiful in both Makkah and Madinah. But if it gives you peace of mind, you may wish to get the roaming data access prior to your trip.
Install the Nusuk app for booking of entry to the Raudhah at Masjid Nabawi prior to your trip. The booking can be done even before your trip, especially if you are going to Madinah first, as the slots a few days ahead are usually wiped out within a few hours of being made available. Another important app to install is the Careem app – the local private hire vehicle company the likes of Grab/Gojek – or Uber if you want to reduce haggling over fares.
Madinah
For our recent trip, we chose to fly to Madinah first, to experience the calm and peace of the city of the Prophet PBUH before performing our Umrah. Upon clearing immigration and luggage screening at the Prince Mohammed Bin Abdulaziz International Airport, we were approached by a young man beaming to take us to our hotel. We were fairly certain that there was no short of taxi supply from the airport. However, as we were really exhausted from the flight, and neither jad the energy nor the will to bargain, we agreed to go with the young man readily after we were told of the fare of 150 Riyal, although it seemed to be on the high side.
Walking towards the Prophet’s mosque (Masjid Nabawi) from the hotel felt like a dream, as we admire the signature gigantic umbrellas. The Prophet PBUH said that praying in his mosque is a thousand times better than praying anywhere else. Just like most mosques, the musollah (prayer halls) there are gender-based, so if you are travelling with your spouse or family members, be sure to agree on a particular meeting point after prayers. This could be a gate number, a door number or the nearest toilet.
For those who have never been there, have you ever imagined having the blessed opportunity of being THAT close to the Prophet PBUH? At the time of writing, the men were able to attend ziarah (visit) to the Prophet’s and his two beloved companions’ (Saiyidina Abu Bakr ra and Saiyidina Omar ra) tombs from Door No. 2 (but the way to this door is fenced up all the way to another open-air entrance further up front).
Visiting Raudhah (the hallowed area in the mosque between the Prophet’s tomb and his pulpit) during your trip is highly encouraged. This is where you can make an abundance of du’a, as at this place, all supplications will be accepted (Maqbul). One has to book a session using the Nusuk app as mentioned earlier. It is generally recommended to come early (at least an hour in advance) to gather near Door No. 37 of the mosque before your appointment and standby your phone to show your booking in the app. Different people have had different experiences entering the Raudhah, be it being rejected entry at the last minute for some reasons, or not being able to book a slot as there were no more vacancies. (We had to book about a few weeks in advance, so forward planning is important.) However, do make lots of du’a that Allah s.w.t. would make the process smooth, and insyaAllah, He will grant your du’a.
Having said the above, it is still possible to not get a chance to enter Raudhah afterall, despite all the necessary preparation and du’as made. Do not be disheartened, because remember the fact that just praying in the mosque itself is a thousand times better than praying anywhere else, and our supplications can be accepted by Allah s.w.t. anywhere too. Praying in Raudhah is a bonus. If you managed to, Alhamdulillah, but if not, then perhaps Allah s.w.t. has better plans for you insyaAllah. Furthermore, there are other sacred places in Mecca where supplications will be accepted.
Baqi’
Jannatul Baqi’ (the Garden of Baqi’) is the main cemetery in Madinah to the south-east of the Prophet’s Mosque. It contains the graves of many Sahabah (companions of the Prophet s.a.w.) but unfortunately, it is difficult to identify them as they are unmarked. Only the men may enter to visit the graves after every Fajr and ‘Asr prayers. For those who would want to usher burials that usually take place after each prayer would have to pray at areas very close to Door No. 37 (nearer to the cemetery entrance) so that you can catch the burial in time.
Ziarah
Ziarah (visiting key places) in Madinah is fairly convenient. The hop-on-and-off bus is available for booking near the mosque. It covers key landmarks like the grounds of the Uhud Battle (Mount Uhud), Qiblatayn Mosque and Quba Mosque (the first mosque built by the Prophet s.a.w.). Do not forget to visit the Prophet’s Mosque expansion exhibition as well as the museum on the biography of the Prophet s.a.w. at the southern part of the mosque. For those who would prefer to explore on your own, Quba’ Mosque is within walking distance (about 4km) from the Prophet’s Mosque. There are also many other spots not mentioned here. Feel free to explore them at your own convenience. You may also hire a Mutawwif to show you around in Madinah, as they fill you in on the history behind various places. A list of Mutawwif and their contact numbers can be found in the Umrah DIY Singapore Telegram group.
Transfers between Makkah and Madinah
For those on a mid-range budget, the Haramain High Speed Railway provides the most comfort to travel between the two cities at about 150 Riyal per head (child tickets will be discounted). It is fairly convenient and very fast (journey of about two hours only) with an onboard cafe selling snacks and beverages for those who need them. Pilgrims heading to Makkah should be in Ihram wear before boarding, because in about less than 10 minutes upon leaving Madinah, there will be an announcement in the train that the Miqat (a place outside of Makkah where the intention for Umrah should be made) is reached and you would have to make your intention (Niyyah) for Umrah at that point. Luggage compartment is spacious, and each passenger is allowed to carry one big luggage bag (35cm x 55cm x 65cm including wheels) and a hand-carry bag which can be placed in the overhead cabin.
For families who prefer the convenience of private vehicles, there are many private-hire companies that can arrange transfers between Madinah and Makkah at a higher cost of 500-700 Riyal. If you’re travelling from Madinah to Makkah, the driver can take you to perform Miqat at the mosque at Bir ‘Ali first before heading to Makkah. All in all, the journey to Makkah may take about four hours.
Those on a tighter budget may choose to travel by the SAPTCO Bus which is also convenient, but the journey may take about six hours, which is longer than the first two options above. Longer travel times may also affect your energy level to perform Umrah upon reaching Makkah, hence, do factor this in.
Makkah
Especially for first-timers, the feeling of first seeing the Ka’abah is simply indescribable. The Grand Mosque (Masjidil Haraam) in Makkah is really huge, and at the time of writing, the lower Mataf levels (the grounds to do the Tawaf – circumambulation of 7 times around the Ka’abah) are open to only male pilgrims in Ihram wear and all women. Men who are not in Ihram wear will be directed to other sections of the mosque. Once you have completed your first obligatory Umrah – the Tawaf and Sa’ee, complete with Tahallul (cutting or shaving of hair for men, and cutting a little bit of hair for women) upon reaching Makkah, you can choose to optimise the remaining days of your stay in Makkah not in the hotel but in the mosque, or by visiting key landmarks. Try your best not to succumb to the comforts of the hotel room and to optimise your ibadah by striving to pray at Masjidil Haram every prayer of the day as the rewards are a hundred thousand times more than if you were to pray anywhere else. However, make sure to set out early by at least an hour, because nearer the prayer time, prayer areas are almost always full and you would be left mostly at the outskirts or even outside the mosque. A tip for men, if you are at the lower Mataf area in your Ihram wear, when the azan is being called, slowly inch your way nearer to the Kaa’bah to ensure you get a place inshaAllah, in the saf closer to the Ka’abah. Do be mindful to refrain from rushing or pushing as it is not in the spirit of the pilgrimage.
Going out for Miqat
To perform your subsequent Umrah, you would need to perform Miqat again outside of Makkah. There are many taxis waiting around busy hotel entrances. You can observe them when you walk back from Masjidil Haraam towards the hotel. Return trip to Masjid Aisyah or Masjid Tana’im costs about 80 Riyal. You can do your Sunnah prayers at the mosque while the driver waits for you at the carpark. It is good practice to confirm this arrangement with the driver first though.
Elderly & Toddlers
For the elderly or those with walking difficulties, there is the option of doing Tawaf and/or Sa’ee by renting a wheelchair. You may also engage someone to push you on the wheelchair. There is also an option for you to rent a scooter to perform the Tawaf and/or Sa’ee. It costs 230 Riyal for a double-seater scooter and 115 Riyal for a single-seater one (at the point of writing). We squeezed our toddler on our laps. The scooter is easy to operate – pull the lever to move forward and release it to slow down or brake. The Tawaf area for scooters is on the mezzanine level (the floor just below the roof level). You can reach this level by going to the second floor, and going up a long ramp. If you can’t find it, make du’a, and also ask any of the soldiers or officials for assistance. The mosque generally has 4 levels of Mataf. Male pilgrims can only be on the first floor (at the time of writing) if they are in Ihram wear. The 2nd floor and roof level are open to everyone. However, strollers and wheelchairs are generally not allowed on the ground floor Mataf, but they are allowed on other levels of the Mataf as the ground floor can be quite crowded.
With little children, the magic that always happens without fail in the Haraam is that, whenever they cry, sweets, candies or chocolates would suddenly appear from strangers around the mosque. My little guy got his little pocket full with snacks from well-meaning strangers, to keep him distracted.
The challenging bit can be when your toddler decides to do his or her ‘business’ in the mosque and the ‘aroma’ is too strong. You have to pick your battles. You can use wet tissues and bottled water to clean up and dispose of the ‘burger pack’ (soiled diapers!) if you’re somewhere deep within the mosque, or exit the mosque and enter the nearest hotel or mall to use the washrooms. I feel that they are more convenient and toddler-friendly as compared to the basement WCs.
Bag checks are random and happen at the doors by security officials. If you’re carrying large bags (like us, carrying toddler stuff) they may stop you to check your bags. Usually, this would not be a huge concern, but we got stopped once as we had a toy gun which could be noisy and loud, so we were asked to leave it outside the mosque, understandably, as it may disturb other mosque congregants. Alas when we returned, naturally it was gone.
With elderly and toddlers, do adjust your expectations and do not set the bar too high. Having a compassionate attitude and trying to put yourself in their shoes (yes, even the shoes of the toddler) could mean a whole world of difference to your (and their) Umrah experience.
Ziarah (Makkah)
Ziarah in Makkah is as convenient as in Madinah. You can visit places like Jabal Nur (and even hike up to its summit and visit the Hira’ Cave if you’re up for it) and Jabal Rahmah. They are accessible via taxis which you can hail near your hotel entrances or roadsides.
Makkah and Madinah in Common
Food
If there is one thing that you need not worry about insyaAllah, it is food. You need not worry if they are Halal. You need not worry if the store owners do not understand you (most of them speak simple English and even Malay). You need not worry if there would not be enough food or about variety. Enough said. But what you have to be concerned about is your food intake. Remember the adage: We eat to live, not live to eat. Do eat enough to provide you with energy to perform your ibadah, but not too much that you become sluggish.
Zam Zam Water
Hydration is the most key there. To prevent heat stroke, and other gastric or health issues, do drink from the Zam Zam stations all around the mosque to remain adequately hydrated. The officials would not mind if you were to top up your water bottles, but they would stop you at the entrance if you were to openly bring empty gallon containers. Take note though, not all water stations contain Zam Zam water (Zam Zam water stations are labelled clearly). The others are just cold-water dispensers. The challenge to remain adequately hydrated also means managing your visits to the washrooms, because it would take quite a significant amount of time to go and return to your spot in the mosque (which would definitely be taken by then) as the washrooms are quite a distance away. Having said this, refusing to drink just to avoid the frequent visits is also not a good idea as it may cause health problems as mentioned above, like dehydration and heat stroke. Hence, balance is key.
Cold ones are labelled too!
Charity
There are many opportunities for charity in both Makkah and Madinah, but unlike the culture here in Singapore where we have donation tins or boxes or QR codes inviting congregants to donate via fund transfers, at the Haraam we can make charity by giving to the workers within the Haraam itself, whose uniforms are colour-coded according to the areas that they are assigned to. Do this discretely though, unless you are prepared to give to all the other workers who may be watching. We can also give cash or small gifts to other pilgrims, their children or the elderly. There are also food outlets that offer Sabeel – meals for the needy. We can buy meals for a number of people within our budget and they can help to distribute the meal packs to the needy on the streets. We can also do acts of service by helping other pilgrims who need help, be it finding their way, carrying items for them, etc. Even a smile is charity. We can buy folding chairs (available at the Bin Dawood superstores) and Mushafs (from various shops) to donate (Waqaf) to the two mosques.
Conclusion
Performing Umrah, requires us to really purify our intentions for performing this sacred deed. As Dhuyuufurrahman (invited guests of Allah), we try to ensure everything goes smoothly both logistically and administratively, and after that, we leave all matters in His Hands, so that we can focus on our spiritual upliftment. The goal is not in the destination nor the status, but the process of constantly re-evaluating ourselves and the betterment of our faith, and this should continue even after we return to our homeland. May Allah s.w.t. accept our Umrah, forgive our sins from one Umrah to the next, and allow us to be invited again and again to His House. Ameen ya rabbal ‘alamin!